Croda's new ester - superior to silicon?

The US arm​ of the British chemical ingredients company Croda has announced the launch of a new silicon alternative, an emollient ester said to retain a silicone-like feel while bringing greater functionality to make-up and sunscreen products.

Crodamol STS - PPG-3 Benzyl Myristate - currently pending patent, is being promoted as 'superior to silicone'. The company claims the product has many of the desirable attributes of traditional silicone, such as its shine and feel characteristics, yet it also has a number of additional benefits not available with silicone- non-volatile, safer to use, and has no drying effect on the skin.

The company also states that the product is easily emulsified and can stabilise high silicone load emulsions. In addition, phase separation time experiments are claimed to have shown their product to have a wider compatibility with other ingredients and better dispersibility in water.

Unlike silicon, Crodamol STS shows little spontaneous spreading on skin, forming films that aid in sunscreen deposition and help reduce dry-off of essential oils, concluded Croda, adding that it is also able to wet pigments, giving it more multi-functionality in either make-up or sunscreen products.

Meanwhile, in Europe, Croda​ announced last month the introduction of two new sugar-derived polyester emollients for skincare. The company claims that the mild, high molecular-weight sucrose esters - Crodaderm S (sucrose polysoyate) and Crodaderm B (sucrose polybehenate)- have been shown to deliver consumer perceptible benefits in terms of skin-feel, softness and smoothness.

Crodaderms are produced from naturally-derived vegetable oil and sucrose feedstocks. Designed to improve moisturisation, skin elasticity and suppleness, while providing a clean skin feel, according to Croda, due to the slow spreading, semi-occlusive nature of their films, the new products are also expected to give better actives deposition and have a protective effect on the skin barrier.

Both products are said to show wide compatibility with oils and other non-polar materials and possess good wax solvency. Setting them apart from some conventional esters, Crodaderms can can also increase viscosity in certain oil-in-water emulsions. Crodaderm B, a solid based on C22 fatty acid chains is described as particularly useful as an oil phase gellant.

Recommended applications include sun care, baby care and specialist treatment products, as well as skin moisturisers and cleansers.