A new bio-functional ingredient for the EU
ingredients for cosmetics, has launched a new anti-inflammatory
ingredient in Europe. Vital ET is a bio-functional form of
vitamin E developed for use in the formulation of skin treatment
products, writes Claire Johnston.
Claimed to have both anti-erythemal (UV damage) and anti-inflammatory properties, Vital ET is designed for use in personal care products to prevent skin irritation or inflammation caused by sunburn, shaving and acne, or reactions caused by anti-ageing treatments.
"In developing a product that can aid the reduction of redness and swelling associated with these conditions, we have exploited the properties of disodium tocopherol phosphates, which have been shown to deliver that benefit. In Vital ET we have complexed it with disodium lauriminodipropionate to make it more bioavailable to the skin." said ISP Europe marketing director Neil Thomas.
ISP claims that the skin restorative properties of Vital ET - that is easily formulated into oil and water-based systems - makes it suitable for application in sunscreens, body lotions, anti-ageing creams, anti-acne and shaving products, anti-perspirants and colour cosmetics.
In-vitro penetration studies show that the new ingredient has a better delivery than á-tocopheryl acetate, a widely-used source of vitamin E that protects skin cells from environmental damage.
In a clinical study to assess the potential of Vital ET to reduce the redness and swelling of inflamed acne lesions, it was found that the anti-inflammatorry significantly reduced both swelling and redness after 5 days of application compared to no treatment.
Another clinical study examined both pre-treatment and post-treatment of UV-induced erythema. Three concentrations of Vital ET were examined against tocopheryl acetate, and a medium-strength prescription steroid. All concentrations of Vital ET and the steroid resulted in lower erythema scores in comparrison to Tocopheryl acetate, which was proven less effective.
The anti-inflammatory ingredient - already launched in the US - is to be featured at the In-Cosmetics exhibition to be held in Milan, April 27-29 2004.
