Nano-encapsulated vitamin C ups anti-ageing stakes

Switzerland-based Cosmetochem has launched a new nano-encapsulated stabilised vitamin C formulation that is claimed to stimulate collagen production when used in anti-ageing formulations.

Produced using nano-technology, Cosmetochem says Collagen Factor MAP has been developed to produce a vitamin C derivative, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) in liposomes 150-200nm in size. This allows the active to reach appropriate layers of the dermis and thus make it infinitely more effective as a collagen booster than unencapulated MAP.

The company claims that the technology actually improves the rates to such a degree that it has an active exchange surface estimated to be ten times more powerful than many commercially available liposomes.

"Collagen Factor MAP has been developed specifically with anti-ageing skin care treatments in mind," said Jane Tiedtke, head of marketing at Cosmetochem. "Vitamin C is known to be a powerful antioxidant which can protect the skin , however it is unstable. We have developed a stable encapulated vitamin C derivative which has been shown to significantly stimulate collagen production."

Collagen plays an important role in the extracellular matrix of the human dermis. During ageing the collagen fibres start to cross-link and this is ofetn due to external factors such as exposure to UV radiation. The result of this is that the skin loses its elasticity.

Research has proven that topically applied vitamin C can help to stimulate the production of collagen, in turn helping to maintain a healthy-looking skin which is said to have fewer wrinkles.

Cosmetochem hopes that its nano-encapsulated vitamin C will improve the efficacy of the numerous skin care formulations that now include the ingredient in their formulations.

The company says the independent tests using immunofluorescent antibody-labelling showed an increase in optical density of cell culture caused by collagen synthesis, that was 24 times greater than standard formulations.

Cosmetochem claims that Independent tests using immunofluorescent-antibody labelling to locate collagen synthesis in test cells showed an increase in fluorescence caused by collagen synthesis in those cells treated with the Collagen Stimulation factor MAP that was 25 times that of the control and 10 times that on the unencapulated MAP.