The company says that the ingredient has been designed to repair the DNA through the stimulation of protein XPC, a compound that is integral to the initial phase of excision repair to UV and photo-induced damage to skin, which often causes facial wrinkles.
The ingredient is rich in low molecular weight peptides derived from cottonseed, which boosts the skin repair equipment to accelerate the elimination of DNA damage, thereby reducing the risks of inflammation and erythema and skin ageing.
The company says that when it tested the ingredient at 2 per cent concentration on human fibroblasts irradiated with UVA, Heliomoduline significantly stimulated the expression of XPC (by 91 per cent).
This is because XPC favours the elimination of cyclobutane pyrimide dimmers (CPD), which in turn protects the cell from the mutagenic effects of UV radiation.
Because of its ability to both repair and protect the skin, the ingredient should prove ideal for inclusion in a wide range of anti-ageing and sunscreen products, two categories that are currently experiencing strong market growth as individuals seek solutions that both protect and nurture their skin.
Anti-aging and sun protection products have grown off the back of increased awareness of the perils to skin caused by environmental exposure. For cosmetics purpose, anti-ageing products now commonly contain UV filters as part of measures to prevent further damage to the skin that might result in wrinkling.
Likewise sunscreen products have become equally important in the fight against reducing the chances of wrinkling as well as a means of reducing the risk sun burn and the associated cancer risks.
In recent years UV filter ingredients are being increasingly shared by both anti-aging and sunscreen products, with a blurring of the categories occurring as sunscreens manufacturers also manufacture their products as being anti-aging.
The company says it is planning to show the ingredient to the industry at the forthcoming Health & Beauty America show, to be held in New York, September 12-14.