Laboratoires Serobiologiques targets well-being cosmetics

The Cognis-owned business claims the ingredient, Euphoryl Omega-3 LS 9846, stimulates dopamine synthesis, which then increases blood circulation in the skin and enhances the complexion.

Stimulates dopamine​

Dopamine is a neurotransmitter often associated with sensations of pleasure and exhilaration. In the skin it increases microcirculation; and for Laboratoires Serobiologiques the link with the chemical’s happiness effect in the brain perfectly positions the ingredient for the growing number of well-being products in cosmetics.

“Based on a combination of natural ingredients which help generate positive emotions, Euphoryl Omega 3 is a pure happiness concentrate that lights up the skin’s complexion and enhances skin feeling of comfort and wellbeing.​

“It aims at revealing the resplendent skin of a woman in full bloom and is therefore ideal for the formulation of ‘happy cosmetic’ ranges,”​ said Anne-Laurie Rodrigues, communications manager at Laboratoires Serobiologiques’.

The ingredient is a mix of sacha inchi oil (Plukenetia volubilis) native to the Amazon rainforest and pink pepper (Schinus terebinthifolius) extract.

Sacha inchi oil is very high in omega 3, while the pink pepper extract is a stimulating and invigorating agent which also provides fragrance notes, according to the company.

In vitro​ tests illustrate the dopamine stimulating effect and in vivo ​tests using 2 per cent concentration of the active ingredient show an increase microcirculation 30 minutes after application, explained Dr Gilles Pauly, when presenting the ingredient at in-cosmetics last week.

Unlike many other dopamine stimulators, the company claims Euphoryl Omega 3 does not irritate the skin.

Endorphin approach ​

The ingredient is the result of the company’s research into how modulating the peripheral nervous system might improve skin comfort and well-being.

Pauly described another complementary approach investigated by Laboratoires Serobiologiques targeting endorphin rather than dopamine which resulted in the ingredient Skinasensyl, released late last year.

The endorphin approach is designed to reduce skin hyper-reactivity to environmental stimuli or irritating agents, explained Pauly. The idea behind the approach is to target the threshold of neuron excitability.

Skinasensyl is designed to raise the threshold of neuron excitability meaning that a larger external stimulus is needed to elicit a reaction, therefore increasing the skin’s tolerance threshold.