Eastman showcases green emollient esters

Based on biocatalytic processes, the technology is being marketed on the strength of the green processing technologies with which it is formulated. The fact it is a natural emollient that can be used to formulate a range of skin care products.

"Cleaner and greener process"​

“One of the main benefits for formulators is that this emollient platform is based on a cleaner and greener process, which ties in with aims to create natural and organic formulations,”​ said Marcie Anne Natale, Eastman North America market development manager.

Natale spoke to CosmeticsDesign.com at the first day of Suppliers’ Day 2009 in New Jersey, where the company had devoted a large stand to the promotion of the technology.

Eastman says it has been able to achieve the specific benefits of this technology through the use of a biocatalytic process, developed by its scientists to control conditions so the reaction process can be run at low temperatures.

Less energy needed and no solvents required​

Not only does this mean that the processing can be conducted using less energy, but it also means that the emollient can be produced without the use of solvents, which are unsuitable for natural formulations.

“The process is totally solvent-free, which is very useful for formulators aiming for a high degree of purity to meet stringent certification requirements,”​ said Natale.

To achieve high conversion of biocatalyzed reactions, the Eastman scientists ensured that by-products were removed by sparging with nitrogen, so that esterifaction was achieved with a high degree of efficiency to get the highest level of purification.

“Through this process we have been able achieve an emollient ester that more than 90 percent pure without the need for further process, thus ensuring time and energy savings that contribute towards greener characteristics,”​ said Natale.

The emollient also has high moisture barrier properties, which should make it a good alternative to the petrolatum-based formulations that natural personal care players increasingly want to avoid.

So far the technology has proved to be most suitable in the use of a wide variety of leave-on products that are readily mixed with other oil phase components, including skincare lines such as anti-ageing formulations, as well as colour cosmetic products.

Eastman says it has successfully combined the technology with a wide range of formulations and is working with a number of major personal care players with a view to adapting it according to their specific needs.

The company is also expected to make a major announcement about the technology in the course of the next few weeks, which this publication will be covering.