New emulsifier is cost effective solution for natural formulators says Evonik

Ingredients provider Evonik launched a new natural-derived emulsifier designed for use in oil in water creams and lotions at this year’s ingredients show, Suppliers' Day, in New Jersey.

The company claims the ingredient, Tego Care PSC3, is very robust and can be used in conjunction with a wide range of ingredients and in a wide pH range, as well as being an economical solution for formulators.

Although stable between pHs of 4.5 - 8, Evonik claims the ingredient is particularly suitable for pH 4.5 – 5.5, which is necessary for the use of natural preservation systems.

This, coupled with the natural raw materials used to produce the emulsifier, makes it a good solution for natural formulators, the company said. To this end, Evonik is in the process of applying for Ecocert certification.

In addition to its compatability with certain natural preservation systems, the ingredient can also form stable emulsions without the addition of polyacrylate-based thickeners that are unacceptable to a number of natural certification systems.

Tego Care PSC3 is based on glycerine, stearic acid and citric acid, and the proposed INCI name of the substance is polyglycerol-3 stearate /citrate.

According to Evonik, potential product applications include skin care and baby care products, as well as sun care due to its robust nature.

Emollient ester from green chemistry

The company also showcased recently-launched ingredients to the US market on the stand at Suppliers' Day, including the emollient ester Tegosoft OER.

An emollient that leaves a smooth non-oily skin feel, Tegosoft OER is also caring for the environment, according to the company.

Rather than the chemical catalysts (metal salts or strong acids) that are traditionally used in the conventional manufacture of fatty acid esters the company used an enzyme catalyst to produce Tegosoft OER.

Using the enzyme rather than the chemical catalyst lowers the temperature needed for the reaction to proceed, from between 160 to 240 degrees centigrade to 60 degrees centigrade, and produces a finished product that has to undergo fewer refining steps than that produced by the more traditional methods.