The in vivo UVA study was performed via the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) method using the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) response - a method of measuring UVA protection, similar to the SPF method of measuring UVB light protection.
The test was carried out on the required 10 person panel, and showed the formulation containing 2 percent UVB absorber and 0.5 percent UVA absorber had a high UVA protection.
A UVA-PF value of 10.7 was achieved with the PPD response compared to the JCIA standard containing over 8 percent total UVA/ UVB chromophore that measured 4.3.
“Most important was the surprisingly high UVA protection with our prototype sunscreen formulation. There was a definitive and significant enhancement using the Hydresia® oleosome-based formulation which contained a much lower level of UVA absorber than traditional systems,” Carl Cappabianca, director of sales and marketing at Botaneco, told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.
Key ingredients of the prototype
Cappabianca told CosmeticsDesign.com USA the key ingredients of the prototype are hydresia oleosomes, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane and fragrance, preservative, sunscreen dispersant and thickener.
The hydresia provides emulsification, extends delivery of the sunscreen actives and enhances the UVA and UVB sunscreen actives.
Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is the UVB absorber and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane is the UVA absorber and are the two sunscreen actives in the oleosome-based formulation at 2 percent and 0.5 percent levels, respectively.
Cappabianca said the fragrance, preservative, sunscreen dispersant and thickener are some of the traditional ingredients present in the oleosome-based formulation at a total of about 6.5 percent to perform the functions as noted.
Previous test results
Earlier in the year, CosmeticsDesign.com USA told how the oleosome-based sunscreen prototype had met the requirements of the FDA monograph method, carried out on a 20 person panel, which revealed an SPF value of 30.
The prototype formulation used in the in-vivo trials contained a total of 2.5 percent UV absorbers. In comparison, a non oleosome-based formulation would require in the range of 15 - 20 percent active ingredients
Botaneco claim the results of the previous UVB and the newly completed UVA tests demonstrate the ability of the Hydresia oleosome technology to enhance both the SPF and UVA-PA ratings of sunscreen product formulations.
“The multi-functionality and aesthetic benefits of Hydresia oleosome technology allows for its use not only in sunscreen products but also in a wide range of daily wear products requiring various levels of sun protection,” said Dr Jack Guth, vice president research and development.
Advantages of the sunscreen formulation prototype
According to Botaneco, using an oleosome-based sunscreen formulation may lead to potential cost savings, and the use of a lower level of active ingredients can be beneficial to the consumer from a safety point of view; thus avoiding certain UV-absorbing chemicals that can potentially penetrate the skin, enter the bloodstream, and cause damage to soft tissues.
Cappabianca explained that UV protection is being formulated in an increasingly wide range of daily use products such as moisturizers, exfoliants and skin lighteners, leading the company to address photo damage as a year round problem.
He stated that in such formulations, the multifunctional hydresia oleosomes would not just enhance performance of the sunscreen actives but would also improve the aesthetics of these products.
“We are currently extending the oleosome-based UVA/UVB sunscreen protection concept at Botanceo further by developing higher SPF formulations, working with a wider range of sunscreen actives and addressing additional cosmetic categories.”