With this advancement ingredient suppliers will ultimately be able to target more cell receptor sites by using biomimetic peptides, essentially allowing the epidermis and dermis to communicate more effectively, a process that is vital to collagen production.
A cell receptor site works like a complex lock and key mechanism. Scientists have, however, designed synthetic molecules to biomimic real ‘key type’ molecules in areas such as drugs and drug delivery, and now this technology is available in skin care.
Synthetic key developed to fit the cell receptor site
In order to be effective in targeting the receptor sites, the synthetic key has to be made to perfectly match to achieve efficacy for the receptor site (lock) in question.
Peptides play an important role in biomimetic science as they bind to a specific receptor at the surface of cells to transmit intracellular signals and a number of cosmetic ingredients players have become involved in this area.
The first is Unipex, which has developed B-White, a combination of amino acids derived from a transforming-growth factor, resulting in a peptide that is encapsulated in a liposome.
B-White targets skin lightening and brightening
In particular, B-White binds to the TGF-b receptor of the melanocyte cell to inhibit the main enzymes involved in the skin pigmentation, thus assisting in skin lightening and brightening.
Ichimaru Pharcos has developed an ingredient that inhibits the activation of the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AhR) to induce the expression of the enzymes that are involved in xenobiotic metabolism.
Known as OUGON Liquid B, it has been developed to inhibit the AhR-CYP signal caused by environmental pollution, and as a result, help prevent oxidative stress and therefore, skin aging.
B.I.O. develops tetra peptide slow aging process
Likewise, B.I.O Inc, makers of SkinVie have already included a few of these concepts in their stress releasing and soothing products. This line features a tetra peptide to deal with the sensitive skin and the susceptibility that the skin has to external stimuli.
B.I.O.’s tetra peptide binds to this receptor to inhibit the release of CGRP which is a pro-inflammatory cytokine. The result is that skin treated with tetra peptide will become more tolerant to external factors because it calms the skin restoring it to normal levels and in turn helps to slow down the aging process.
The science behind these formulations is complex but brilliant as there are a multitude of receptors in the skin. This means that new products and ingredients can be married to solve a multitude of skin aging problems, which means a plethora of variations are likely to be launched in the future.