The derivative of Niacin also known as vitamin B3, has been found to “improve skin tone and texture, reduce many signs of skin aging and diminish acne”, according to a CoValence spokesperson.
The ingredient contains antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and is said to be “stable, safe and well tolerated in all forms, even in relatively high topical concentrations.”
Evolution
For an ingredient that was first linked to preventing the development of diabetes in animal experiments in the 1950s, and although research remains ongoing to uncover the additional properties of Niacinamide, it has come a long way.
The compound can suppress antigen-induced, lymphocytic transformation and inhibit 3'-5' cyclic AMP phosphodiesterase. It has also demonstrated the ability to block the inflammatory actions of iodides known to precipitate or exacerbate inflammatory acne.
It also strengthens the stratum corneum, or outermost layer of skin, and increases the rate of skin surface renewal to help reverse the appearance of past damage such as discoloration or the look of enlarged pores.
Benefits are also said to include restoring and increasing skin's elasticity and hydration from aging and sun damage.
Industry buzz
With the pressure of competition and the consumer’s high demand for natural and unique products, companies such as Proctor and Gamble have also jumped on the Niacinamide bandwagon.
A study organized by P&G found that not only is ingredient well-tolerated by all skin types, but also reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation, redness, yellowing, and blotchy spots on the face.
A group of 50 women between the ages of 40 and 60 participated in a double-blind, placebo-controlled study with randomized testing over a 12-week period.
Randomization was done between a moisturizer lacking a Niacinamide concentration and one with a 5% concentration. The results showed that the latter topical solution yielded more noticeable effects than the former.