“I was honored to deliver the presentation on the photostabilities of selected anti-aging skin care active ingredients”, Craig Bonda, director of research and development at HallStar Company told CosmeticsDesign.com USA.
Addressing industry professionals, Bonda explained what happens to anti-aging active ingredients after they’ve been applied to the skin and exposed to the sun.
“They literally disappear after exposure to low doses of UV radiation, the amount you might expect after just a few minutes in the sun. Only about 1/3 of Resveratrol remains after a few minutes of simulated sun exposure.”
UV effect
Next the director of research and development questioned how much more effective the actives would be if they were protected from the effects of UV.
In the study, ethyl hexyl methoxycrylene (EHMC), a compound used to photostabilize sunscreen, was selected to stabilize the anti-aging actives. Radiation was provided by a xenon light source whose output was filtered to eliminate wavelengths below 290nm and above 400nm to approximate the solar UV spectrum.
Thermal and oxidative effects were then determined by HPLC after incubation at 37°C on a collagenous substrate for vitamin A and on glass for resveratrol.
Demonstration
Thus, via a skin model, Bonda demonstrated that photostabilizing Resveratrol with SolaStay S1 (Ethylhexyl methoxycrylene) increased its antioxidant activity by 46 percent over non-photostabilized Resveratrol.
“All three actives, retinol, retinyl palmitate and trans-resveratrol, were protected from photodegradation by ethylhexyl methoxycrylene, which appears to function at least partly through a singlet quenching mechanism”, concluded Bonda.
In 2011, Hallstar, with over 50 years of esterification experience acquired BioChemica, a provider of natural oils and butters, and the Italy-based B&T company, an innovative creator of functional ingredients based on olive oil.