Charleston, South Carolina, was the scene for the unveiling of a host of new innovations for the cosmetic industry at the Society of Cosmetic Chemists annual science conference.
The sessions, which built upon each other very systematically, started with a 'Scientific Approach to Sustainability,' then delved into the 'Skin Protection Barrier' and the 'Molecular Biology of the Skin,' while being wrapped up with a review of 'Formulation: What’s New.'
Key note address introduced the green trend
Starting out with a well-attended social event at the Aquarium, sponsored by the Southeast Chapter of the SCC, the the program got off in high gear with a Key Note Address by John Warner, the King of all things Green, as he described the intellectual framework required for the practice of true green chemistry.
During the presentation he made the observation that the enemy of the excellent is the perfect, and that all incremental successes should be celebrated on the road to Green.
Green themes were also echoed in the final two presentations as well which focused on ways that the ACS GCI (American Chemical Society Green Chemistry Institute) is taking green by the horns with the Formulators Roundtable and the new ANSI/NSF/GCI 355 Standard which provides a framework for the reporting on a substance’s hazard profile.
The session was rounded off with a presentation describing the challenges of finding a sustainable polymer for hair styling that can satisfy consumer’s aesthetic needs.
Skin care sessions focused on skin barriers and technology
The theme then shifted to skin with sessions focused on skin barrier and biology: methodology to identify and quantify skin barrier lipids, then studies on several novel ingredients – three different naturally derived compounds that have a modulating effect on three key skin enzymes and a bio-fermentation extract created in a competitive culture that increases expression of Caspase-14 and hyaluronic acid in a wounded skin model.
Gene expression and epigenetics were at the forefront of this segment, with a presentation that mulled the idea of making the skin look better by influencing epigenetics, and then one that detailed an extract from meristematic rice cells that influenced the promoter region of genes specific to collagen synthesis.
Another active was proven to have an effect on both the gene and protein expression of structural components and metabolic regulators in the epidermis, while the skin sessions were brought to an end with an interesting discussion of glycation and its’ negative consequences on skin aging.
Product focus on tissues, sanitzers and lip balms
The last session was product specific with a focus on the clinical efficacy and desirable aesthetics of three less than sexy, but nonetheless important consumer products: tissues, hand sanitizers and lip balms – chapped noses and lips coupled with dry, flaky hands are never the way to go!
Overall the event was a good blend of scientists from the raw material side, the finished goods side and governmental agencies presenting data on methods development and ingredients that support well identified trends for skin and hair care.
Likewise, skin barrier, consumer perceived aesthetics, green chemistry and epigenetics were at the center of the trends that were highlighted during the discussion.