The hottest trends from the in-cosmetics trends presentations, 2013

Since I began covering the in-cosmetics marketing trends presentations in 2000, these sessions have become essential for anyone wanting to hear the latest trends and insights on the global cosmetics and toiletries industry.

Here are some of the key highlights observed during the 3-days of presentations, including what's going on in fragrances, Asia Pacific and what to expect in the future:

Fragrance in cosmetics ​ 

For the first time, in-cosmetics dedicated a morning of presentations to the role of scent in cosmetics.

According to Patrick Saint-Yves, president of the French Society of Perfumers, most people talk about fine fragrance when they think about the fragrance compounds market.

“The market is divided into thirds between fine fragrance, personal care and fabric/aircare,”​ he explained.

Emmauelle Moeglin, global fragrance and personal care assistant, Mintel, demonstrated the importance of fragrance when consumers choose personal care products.

Although to be expected in categories such as shower gel, hand & bodycare, scent is a top priority for US consumers when choosing a shampoo - 44 per cent - or conditioner - 44 percent.

Mintel highlighted new trends in fragrance ingredients:​

• Floral
• Gourmet/edible
• Green/herbal/woody

Fantasy - not olfactory, but linked to dreams, twilight etc. The number of fantasy-inspired launches has doubled in five years.

What to look out for, next ​ 

Consumers are diversifying the way they wear fragrances, with opportunities for new scented formats, e.g. air fresheners, dryer sheets and laundry detergents that smell the same as a favourite fragrance.  

Fragrances that offer more than scent: stress-relieving properties, pick-me-up, antibacterial, anti-ageing, mood-enhancing.

The next big trends from Asia ​

Florence Bernardin, general manager, Information & Inspiration, specialises in discovering beauty trends in South East Asia and has identified some of the leading trends in this region.

No Time​: a key problem for people who work very long days and have long commuter journeys, Bernadin pointed out.

Women in Japan, China and Korea are looking for products that offer convenience, such as applying a moisturising spray over make-up, or else products that work when they are sleeping.

“Sleep is key to restoring skin that hasn’t slept enough,”​ commented Bernardin. Shorter routines with all-in-one products are also big amongst time-poor Asians.

There is a strong trend for pleasurable, almost edible textures, such as jelly and marshmallow-like foams. 

Positive and active ageing:​ Ageing is seen as an accomplishment and older women are used positively in beauty advertising.

SKII and Shiseido use images of women as they were in their youth and now in their 60s, which cleverly target both ends of the demographic spectrum.

Looking ahead to 2020 ​ 

Emmanuelle Bassmann, managing director, In-Trend, offered some provocative views on future beauty:

• The sun is not your enemy. Research shows that the skin needs a healthy dose of UV and can build up its own resistance, so do we need sun blocks?
• Could moisturisers do more harm than good? Research shows that sunlight generates more free radicals in moisturised skin.
• Not only the dermis, but the fat layer will play a big role in skin rejuvenation.
• Connecting the brain and the skin: companies are working on neurotransmitters to calm the skin and make it less reactive and less sensitive.
• Foams are a prominent delivery system for topical drugs and a modern alternative to creams. The cosmetics industry will follow suit.