Formulation innovation helps broaden the market for SPF boosters

15-Sep-2013 - Last updated on 16-Sep-2013 at 14:32 GMT

Univar personal care development specialist Phillip Mitteness

Significant technical advances in the area of SPF boosters has helped broaden this category into a much wider range of cosmetic products, says leading ingredient distributor Univar.

According to Univar personal care development specialist Phillip Mitteness, one of the enablers for SPF boosters in recent years has been the advancement of film formers.

“Technical advances have enabled much lighter film formers, giving sunscreens a lighter, more breathable feel,” said Mitteness.

“One example of this is stearyl dimethicone, a soft alkylmethylsiloxane wax that melts on contact with the skin, forms an intimate blend with organic UV absorbers and helps form a homogenous film on the skin.”

Technologies focused on enhancing aesthetics and texture

Mitteness also point to several other technologies that are being used to enhance the aesthetics and texture of formulations that combine SPF boosters, including DC FZ-3196 (Caprylyl Methicone) and DC MQ-1640 Flake Resin (Trimethylsiloxy Silicate (and) Polypropyl Silsesquioxane) to create a non-tacky, non-greasy after-feel and enhance the spread of a product.

With specific respect to SPF boosters, Mitteness points out that this innovation has enabled formulators to include highly effective SPF boosters in a much wider range of products, including lotions, sprays, creams and gels, without affecting the aesthetics or functionality.

“Technical advances have enabled us to add SPF boosters to nearly every personal care product for skin without changing the texture or aesthetic appeal of the original product,” he said.

SPFs a key component in BB creams

SPF have also formed a key component of one of the hottest trends in the skin care segment today. BB creams invariably include a comprehensive SPF booster which serves to enhance anti-aging label claims.

Mitteness believes that the drive to include SPFs in such a wide range of skin care products has been driven from the ground up, by consumers who are increasingly aware of the potential dangers of UV exposure and want new more flexible ways of protecting themselves.

“Over the last few years consumers have driven the trend to include SPF in hundreds of personal care products from make-up products to lotions and serums,” he said.

“Consumers want sunscreen options that feel good, rub in easily, don’t take a long time to apply, are non-whitening, and are effective. This demand has driven formulation changes, creating many of the products we see on shelves today.”