How next-generation solutions are providing an alternative to preservative bans

Promoting natural usage​

In today’s natural beauty landscape, a range of preservatives including nanomaterials and antimicrobials​ are being explored to increase the stability and reliability of highly reactive ingredients.

"Consequently, there is an intense focus on nanomaterials and antimicrobials, called preservatives, which ensure the stabilisation of these highly reactive ingredients and extend their shelf life,” Marta Serafin, TechVision Research Analyst, Frost and Sullivan, explained.

Biotech and speciality ingredient markets supplier, Lonza, has released a variety of prototype preservatives that leverage technology and ingredients. The company has conducted intensive R&D activity ​to launch LaraCare A200, a naturally occurring multifunctional polymer, along with its non-traditional Geogard preservative collection.

The company has manufactured these preservatives from 100% plant-derived raw materials. It has gained validation from Cosmos, Ecocert, Natrue, and the Soil Association; along with receiving Kosher and Halal certifications to emphasise its widespread appeal.

There are a number of other important research areas relating to the natural ingredients sector​, Serafin highlighted:“Vehicle systems that deliver active ingredients deep into the skin, enabling treatment of only the targeted areas and dermal fillers for smooth and supple texture as an alternative to dermal surgeries.”​

In tune with emotions​

As Florence Bernardin, Founder of Information & Inspiration, emphasises the importance of e​motions and experiences through efficacy​ in Asian markets, there has been an increasing focus on basing new releases on emotional drivers too.

Sharing her predictions on how this relationship between emotions, experience and efficacy is set to develop, Bernardin stated: “The relationship will split in two directions: a minimalistic efficient one and an ever-evolving direction based on textures and emotions to appeal to new customers.”

Is fear fair?​

The ban on preservatives has not, however, been welcomed by all industry insiders, as fear is considered to play a significant role in affecting consumer choice, Belinda Carli, Director, Institute of Personal Care Science, emphasised. She noted that fears play “the biggest motivator"​ in changing consumers’ current purchasing decisions.

“There are two things that will motivate a consumer to change their purchasing behaviours: fear — undoubtedly the biggest motivator — and hope​ — what claims should promise (and deliver) but all too often don’t,”​ warned Carli. Blaming the internet as the main culprit, Carli observed that misinformation and fear are created by highlighting the harmful implications of chemical-based preservatives.

Largely, the problem for ​formulators, researchers, scientists and experts​ lies with the fact that Carli’s story, for example, “is not as eye-catching as the misinformation and fear that is spread on the internet”​.