The new brand (a collaboration between Wray and a next-gen materials company called Bolt Threads) is promoting its products as so-called clean beauty, suggesting that biotech-derived silk protein is more sustainable, better, and/or safer as well as of higher quality than silk-based skin care ingredients derived from “highly processed” naturally occurring silk.
“As the clean beauty market rapidly evolves, the Eighteen B team is committed to rigorous testing and the development of safe, effective products that serve the health of your skin and our environment,” promises Eighteen B press materials announcing the launch.
By contrast, “most silk used in skincare today is highly processed, compromising its benefits. B-Silk Protein is developed through a fermentation process in the lab, retaining more of silk’s regenerative qualities, locking in moisture, and promoting long-term healthy skin,” a representative of the brand tells Cosmetics Design by email.
Sourcing silk without harming worms or spiders
The B-Silk Protein Eighteen B is using in its product formulas isn’t the first biotech silk on the beauty market. In 2015, for instance, Silk Therapeutics patented a stable liquid silk protein, as Cosmetics Design reported. Though that innovation starts with silk made by the B mori silk moth as its input, and uses a biotech process to purify and isolate fibroin. Silk Therepeutics does have its own brand of personal care under the same name—a portfolio of nearly 20 EWG-verified skin and body care products.
The protein used in Eighteen B’s products (a Revitalizing Hydrogel Moisturizer and a Hydrate + Restore Rich Cream) is made using fermentation.
Beginnings and benefits
Lindsay Wray decided to use biotech silk protein in skincare after working in the Tufts University research laboratory and at a next-generation textiles company called Bolt Threads that does work with spider silk, among other materials. At Bolt, “she realized that if she could get these full-length chains [of textile-quality silk] into skincare to retain more of silk’s natural properties, she could solve a serious unmet need,” as the brand’s press materials describe it. In fact, the new brand operates out of the Bolt Threads' lab in Emeryville, California, according to a brand representative.
As for the benefits of Eighteen B products made with brand’s special protein, the press materials explain that “B-Silk protein works with the structural proteins naturally found in skin, like collagen and elastin, to form a true support system for your skin and strengthen the extracellular matrix. It forms a breathable, protective barrier that locks in moisture and delivers visible lifting, restorative firming and smoothing over time.”
And the brand shared data from a clinical trial (with 33 women participants) showing that after 8 weeks skin elasticity improved on average 68%, 94% of participants had an improvement in skin lifting, and 97% had enhanced skin smoothness.
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Deanna Utroske, CosmeticsDesign.com Editor, covers beauty business news in the Americas region and publishes the weekly Indie Beauty Profile column, showcasing the inspiring work of entrepreneurs and innovative brands.