Looking at the latest cosmetics and personal care ingredient launches of 2020, there are a fair number of silicone alternatives, new and increasingly sophisticated naturals, more non-animal collagen inputs, ingredients that fit squarely in the new menopause skin care space, and more.
Silicone Alternatives for cosmetics and personal care formulations
Just this month, P2Science launched Citropol HA , an ingredient that functions as an alternative to 100 centipoise dimethicone (silicone) fluids in cosmetic product formulations. “Citropol HA is one more safe, bioderived, benign product from P2 that brings emollience, moisturizing, slip, shine, and cushion to skincare, haircare and color cosmetics,” says Neil Burns, CEO of P2, in this month’s media announcement.
Strahl & Pitsch has a new stable wax stick base for personal care and cosmetic products that allows for a high-gloss finish without the addition of silicone. The company’s Base 1 product is a pale yellow color and works well in lipstick, eyeliner, complexion, sun care, fragrance, and deo product formulations.
And of course, ingredient distributors are getting in on the shift away from silicone too. Earlier this year, Univar Solutions and Biosynthetic Technologies signed an agreement making Univar the US distributor for that company’s BioEstolide products. “We are pleased to announce our entrance into the personal care market space with our BioEstolide products,” says Jakob Bredsguard, president of Biosynthetic Technologies Food, Drugs and Personal Care Division.
“These new, bio-based esters,” says Bredsguard, “are manufactured in a facility that runs on sustainable energy. As a biobased alternative to existing petroleum-derived raw materials, we foresee them having a significant impact on the personal care marketplace.”
New and sophisticated Natural Inputs keep making headlines in beauty
More and more often now, natural ingredients are upcycled or side-stream products of food and beverage suppliers and manufacturers. That’s the case with new beauty industry suppler Harris Woolf Almonds. The company has been in the food business since 1989 and is now selling almond oil to cosmetics and personal care manufacturers too.
And innovative brands are sharing their sophisticated natural formulations tech to further advance what’s possible in the science-based natural space. This summer, for instance, Codex Beauty began offering its newly patented broad spectrum anti-microbial preservation system by license to other beauty makers. Read more about Codex’ novel preservation tech here on Cosmetics Design.
Animal-Free Collagen is a go-to ingredient for future-forward beauty brands
This year, TRI-K got into the alternative collagen space with the launch of CollaPlant Z NPNF, for which the INCI names is Hydrolyzed Soy Protein and Rice Amino Acids and Hydrolyzed Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, and L-Proline.
“CollaPlant Z NPNF was specifically developed to mimic the benefits of collagen, a key element in the fight against aging,” says Mihaela Gorcea, Ph.D., Associate Director of Evaluations And Scientific CommunicAtions and R&D at TRI-K, in an online announcement about the ingredient. “This ingredient,” she says, “was designed to have comparable amino acid composition and sensory profile of hydrolyzed animal collagen.”
Geltor was, of course, the first beauty biotech supplier to offer a vegan collagen with its Collume in 2018. And now that company has launched an ingredients-as-a-service platform where beauty makers can request custom proteins and work with Geltor to develop and scale their own unique inputs. Learn more here.
Menopause Skin Care is shaping up to be a key category
Anti-aging is fading out and well aging or healthy aging are now the trends to watch. (Learn more about this shift in consumer and market trends in the anti-aging skin care space at this online event.)
As part of this shift, skin care made expressly for women in or past menopause is showing up in the market. Indie Brand Pause Well Aging was a pioneer in this space and Avon has been spending quite a bit of time on consumer education in the run up to their launch of the Adapt Sync brand. And both of those brand’s boast proprietary ingredients that deliver the skin care benefits that women over 40 are looking for.
And now, Sederma has launched its own menopause skin care ingredient: Feminage. And clinical testing shows “results…associated to a higher quality of the elastic tissue and a preserved fibroblast vitality against glycation and oxidation.” Read more about Feminage and Sederma’s prototype formulations for menopause skin care products here on Cosmetics Design.
Ingredient advances in Scalp Care and Sun Care and beyond
Of course, even all this isn’t the extent of what’s going on in the new beauty ingredient space. A few more highlights include a natural sun care polymer from Nouryon. That supplier's SolAmaze Natural is bio-based and biodegradable.
Croda has a new scalp care ingredient—Phytessence Hazel Leaf that “brings vitality and energy to the scalp by boosting ATP synthesis. [And] it demonstrates a firming effect by increasing the expression of collagen VII within the cells,” according to the product page on crodapersonalcare.com.
Also, in August, BASF announced a new naturally derived stabilizing ingredient that works well in both hair and skin cleansing product formulations. The biodegradable Lamesoft Balance ingredient is meant for use in rinse-off applications, is made from castor oil and APG, and is a fit for COSMOS and NATRUE certified natural cosmetic formulations.
