Acmella oleracea extract-loaded serum’s ‘promising potential’ as natural anti-wrinkle product

The study, led by scientists from Serbian cosmetics company DCP Hemigal, adds to the evidence for A. oleracea’s anti-wrinkle effects. Acmella oleracea​ L., also known as Spilanthes oleracea​ L., and Spilanthes acmella​ L. variety oleracea​, has been touted as a natural alternative to Botox for firming the skin and reducing the presence of wrinkles.

The potential benefits are linked to the plant’s main active molecule N-alkylamide spilanthol.

The new study, published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science, ​found that a “novel, safe, effective and high-quality emulsion serums” ​composed of an “innovative glycolipid mixed emulsifier (lauryl glucoside/myristyl glucoside/polyglyceryl-6 laurate)”​ combined with an Acmella oleracea​ extract led to “noticeable reduction/improvement”​ in skin wrinkles around the eyes and corners of the mouth in as little as two weeks.

Serum formulation​

The researchers tested the rheological parameters of the proposed serum and found that it displayed “favorable shear-thinning flow behavior”. The serum also presented good stability data at the end of the DMTA (dynamic-mechanical thermoanalysis) test.

A serum containing 15% of emollients and 1% of emulsifier was to test in in vivo​ tests in 16 healthy adults (12 women and four men).

“​In vivo investigations demonstrated the overall satisfying skin tolerability/preliminary safety profile of the tested serum sample and noticeable improvement/reduction in all analyzed skin wrinkle parameters, thus confirming a beneficial effect on the appearance of periorbital and perioral expression lines and wrinkles,” ​wrote the researchers.

The researchers noted that the potential mechanism(s) of action of A. oleracea​ extracts are not fully elucidated, it has been proposed that spilanthol may be a rapid-acting topical muscle relaxant that can “rapidly and progressively inhibit the repeated contractions of facial expression muscles (botox-like action), thus achieving claimed instantaneous effect on facial expression lines and wrinkles”​, said the researchers.

“Overall, alongside the demonstrated satisfactory rheological and stability properties, the good general skin performances and established anti-wrinkle effects proved the developed ​A. oleracea extract-loaded natural serum, stabilized with novel glycolipid emulsifier, to be promising and prospective topical anti-wrinkle product,” ​they concluded.

Anti-aging on the decline, anti-wrinkle on the rise​

The development of targeted anti-wrinkle formulations is in-line with recent comments from Anthony Gonzalez, director of global skin care and trend innovation at Avon. Speaking with our European edition last month​, Gonzalez said that the notion of anti-aging products will fade out in two to three years.

“… you’re going to stop seeing the term ‘anti-ageing’ and start seeing terms like ‘wrinkle treatment’ or [brands] talking about what the products are actually doing; not generic anti-ageing,” ​he said.

Source: International Journal of Cosmetic Science​
Published online ahead of print, doi: 10.1111/ics.12726​
‘All-natural’ anti-wrinkle emulsion serum with Acmella oleracea extract: A design of experiments (DoE) formulation approach, rheology and in vivo skin performance/efficacy evaluation​
Authors: S.M. Savic, et al.