Retinol with no BHA and BHT fills consumer 'well-aging' demand

03-Oct-2023 - Last updated on 03-Oct-2023 at 13:33 GMT

BASF launched a new grade of retinol, Retinol 50, that complies with industry clean lists and fits current consumer needs. The product has a high active load of about 50% retinol, similar to other retinol offerings, but without harmful ingredients BHA and BHT.

CosmeticsDesign-USA (CDU) spoke with Hannah Cwienkala, marketing manager of Sun & Skin Care North America for BASF to learn more about the launch of this formulation.

CDU: In what ways does BASF’s Retinol 50 differ from current ingredient formulations available for manufacturers?

Cwienkala: Brands are increasingly interested in developing products that comply with industry clean lists because consumers look to these as a source of education about the ingredients in their personal care products. To comply with these lists, brands may choose to leave out certain ingredients of concern or they may deliberately include ingredients that have a positive reputation for efficacy or sustainability. By removing the BHA and BHT, we hope this can better enable brands to meet the standards of industry clean lists and create effective, well-aging products for conscious consumers

CDU: Can you share information on the efficacy of Retinol 50 in product formulations?

Cwienkala: Retinol is a longstanding well-aging ingredient in the personal care industry. It has been shown to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as well as help contribute to overall healthy-looking skin. These results are why it’s often known as the gold standard of well-aging ingredients. Retinol 50 has been shown to have similar stability performance to BASF’s Retinol 50C grade, even without the BHA and BHT. This new grade also offers flexibility for product developers to further stabilize final formulas to their liking. We hope this helps our customers to develop highly effective skin and body retinol products which support youthful-looking skin.

CDU: Are there any important considerations regarding Retinol 50 that manufacturers should take into account when formulating new products with this ingredient?

Cwienkala: When formulating with Retinol 50 as well as with other BASF retinol grades, keep in mind optimal pH and use concentration in the final formula. Storage temperature of the retinol is another important consideration to ensure it stays stable and will be effective in the end product. BASF Care Chemicals also has a team of technical experts that are available to support you on your next retinol product development.

CDU: Does BASF have any future plans for further innovation or development in this space?

Cwienkala: Yes, we are actively exploring new opportunities to use our research to fuel further innovation and development in this area.