During our discussion with Grady, CosmeticsDesign was given the opportunity for deeper insight behind the scenes of dsm-firmenich's R&D process. Grady spoke about Eterwell Youth, which has recently been awarded Gold at In-Cosmetics Global 2024 for the Innovation Zone Best Ingredient Award - Active Ingredient, and was also named as a finalist for the CEW Suppliers' Award: Ingredients & Formulation (Sponsored by NYSCC) during NYSCC Suppliers' Day convention. We also learned more about some of dsm-firmenich's upcoming innovations, and how the company's innovations fit into current industry trends in ingredient and product formulations.
Eterwell Youth: what it is & how it works
As Grady explained, Eterwell Youth, which is produced from alpine willowherb, is designed to address the skin damage caused by senescent cells, or "zombie cells," which form in response to exposure to damage sources like UV rays or ambient pollution. Senescent cells are know as "zombie cells," shared Grady, as after they form, they spread to other cells, which can accelerate signs of aging in the skin.
As detailed on the dsm-firmenich website, Eterwell Youth has been shown to "reverse the skin appearance by six years after two weeks and nine years after three months in vivo," and is a "true senolytic active [which] clears in vitro senescent cells in excess (by 52% at 0.03% Eterwell Youth)."
Other innovations & future trends
"Everyone is also enthusiastic about Parsol Shield," Grady later explained in our interview, which is a new UV filter will potentially launch next year and will mark the first time in 25 years that a new UV filter will be approved in the US. "It has great photo stability, and can be used with other UV filters, and it minimizes the white cast" often found in topical sun protection products.
About how Eterwell Youth and Parsol Shield fit into the current market landscape, Grady explained that "we're a house of science," and quoted the company's tagline from the event: Science is Believing, emphasizing dsm-firmenich's commitment to backing the efficacy of its ingredients with research and data to best meet the needs of consumers.
At the end of our interview, Grady concluded that if he had to describe the company in three words, dsm-firmenich is "scientific, sustainable, and enthusiastic" about their role in innovating the cosmetic and personal care formulation space.
For a deeper dive into our conversation and to learn even more about what we can expect from dsm-firmenich in the upcoming months, be sure to watch the full video interview above.