AI innovation in fragrance: NotCo and Cramer launch advanced formulation tool for beauty brands

By Cassandra Stern

- Last updated on GMT

"With our technology, the formulations are generated in seconds, allowing fragrance experts to assess different formulations much faster, and enabling new discoveries that end up in novel fragrances," said Karim Pichara, Co-founder and CTO of NotCo. © J Studios Getty Images
"With our technology, the formulations are generated in seconds, allowing fragrance experts to assess different formulations much faster, and enabling new discoveries that end up in novel fragrances," said Karim Pichara, Co-founder and CTO of NotCo. © J Studios Getty Images
NotCo and Cramer have launched a new AI-powered fragrance formulator, utilizing advanced algorithms and a comprehensive fragrance database to streamline fragrance development, reduce production time, and enable high levels of customization for cosmetics and personal care brands.

The Generative AI Fragrance Formulator is powered by NotCo’s proprietary AI, Giuseppe, and is designed to streamline the fragrance development process, offering new levels of speed, creativity, and customization to brands in the cosmetics and personal care sectors.

Speaking on the impetus behind this innovative tool, Karim Pichara, Co-founder and CTO of NotCo, emphasized the outdated and labor-intensive nature of traditional fragrance creation. “The fragrance and flavor generation process has historically been slow, dependent on a few expert perfumers, and lacking automation,” he explained. “With Giuseppe, we’re aiming to transform the creative process, enabling fragrances that are more inspiring and emotionally resonant” while speeding up production from months to seconds.

Breaking down the AI-powered fragrance creation process

The technology behind the Generative AI Fragrance Formulator is rooted in a blend of machine learning and Cramer’s extensive fragrance database, which provides a foundation of molecular fragrance data and historical formulations. Giuseppe uses this database to train its AI model to “understand” the relationship between scent molecules and sensory descriptions, thus allowing it to create unique fragrances based on textual prompts.

“Our proprietary neural network is designed to generate fragrance formulations by understanding molecular-level details of scents,” said Pichara. “By pairing this with Cramer’s database, we can deliver formulations that are emotionally connected and fine-tuned to brand-specific needs in mere seconds, a process that would otherwise take weeks or even months.”

Accelerating innovation for market-ready fragrances

Traditional fragrance formulation, with its intensive time and resource demands, has often presented challenges for R&D teams. NotCo’s AI-driven system is therefore designed to streamline this process.

According to Pichara, in recent trials, 13 unique fragrances created by Giuseppe’s algorithms were approved by Cramer’s perfumers on the first try, with some formulations deemed “market-ready” without further adjustments.

“In our initial studies, AI-generated fragrances matched or even outperformed traditional formulations,” Pichara said. “The AI gives fragrance experts a strong initial formulation, allowing them to refine and finalize products faster."

For instance, he added, "we recently worked with a clothing brand to create five custom fragrances within three weeks.”

Data-driven creativity and personalization

The potential of this tool is not limited to efficiency, Pichara further explained. With consumer interest in personalized experiences growing, this technology opens new possibilities for brands looking to stand out in the crowded cosmetics market.

By connecting language-based prompts directly to fragrance molecules, the Formulator can potentially enable brands to create fragrances that are tailored to evoke specific emotions or capture seasonal moods.

“This approach to fragrance creation, where brands can generate and refine scents based on sensory experiences, is something entirely new,” added Pichara. “The tool offers a unique balance of artistry and precision, letting brands create scents that evoke the nostalgia of Christmas or the peacefulness of a beach sunset—whatever resonates with their audience.”

Opportunities for R&D in personal care and cosmetics

NotCo and Cramer are already engaging with major beauty and personal care brands to integrate this AI tool, anticipating that the first wave of AI-generated fragrance products could reach the market within 12 to 18 months, Pichara shared. NotCo envisions further expansion of its AI, Giuseppe, beyond food and fragrance into other complex formulation areas, from personal care to pharmaceuticals.

“Our AI has already made strides in food and now fragrance. We believe the possibilities are endless,” Pichara concluded. “The future will see AI like Giuseppe working alongside human experts in R&D across industries, making sustainable and creative innovation a reality.”

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