Coty Inc. recently filed a patent for a new eye cream formulation that leverages innovative ingredients for improved skin care results. The formulation, designed for targeted eye-area care, aims to deliver various benefits, from anti-aging to moisture retention, while addressing specific consumer desires for clean, aesthetically pleasing products.
This patent's advancements are notable for cosmetics and personal care manufacturers, as they exemplify a sophisticated approach to formulation development that combines functionality with sensory appeal.
Key ingredients and their roles
The eye cream formulation is a unique blend of two sodium polyacrylates in a specific 3:1 ratio, a balance that the company claims enhances spreadability, texture and ease of application. The patent filing explains that this combination “provides substantial benefits to the formulation as a whole, acting as the gelling agent, " imparting qualities like smooth application and a non-tacky finish.
According to Coty, “the ratio and combination of the two polyacrylates allows for a good spreadability and beneficial blurring effect,” making it suitable for application in the delicate eye area.
The formula includes additional texture-enhancing agents, such as boron nitride powder and pearlescent pigments, contributing to the cream’s smooth application and subtle luminescence. The boron nitride powder improves adherence and is intended to help the formulation glide onto the skin without a greasy feel. Meanwhile, the pearlescent pigments lend a reflective quality that creates a “healthy-looking eye-zone area” and supports a glowing, hydrated appearance.
Advanced surfactant system and clean beauty standards
Coty’s formulation integrates a carefully selected surfactant system, including biodegradable branched surfactants and polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. As outlined in the patent, these surfactants are designed to stabilize the formulation and enhance spreadability without compromising skin compatibility.
The surfactant selection adheres to Coty’s aim of creating “substantially PEG-free” products, meeting the growing consumer demand for clean, environmentally friendly skin care. The patent lists additional surfactant options such as polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, and other plant-based options, further enhancing the appeal to eco-conscious consumers.
Formulation process and stability testing
The eye cream’s formulation process is another critical aspect. Coty’s patent describes a method involving the gradual combination of oil and water phases and precise temperature control, which is essential for a stable emulsion. The process includes heating and stirring the water phase to 80°C and adding powders incrementally, then blending with the oil phase and cooling the formulation.
According to the patent, this controlled process ensures consistency in texture and stability, which are crucial for products targeting the sensitive eye area.
Testing protocols for Coty’s eye cream include rigorous evaluations of texture and sensory properties. Tests cover aspects such as firmness, stickiness, glossiness and spreadability, which are assessed before, during, and after application.
According to the filing, “the inventive samples perform well on these sensory markers,” indicating that Coty’s formulation is expected to meet consumer expectations for a high-quality, easy-to-apply product that leaves a pleasant skin feel.
Implications for cosmetics manufacturers and suppliers
This patent holds valuable insights for cosmetics manufacturers and suppliers, as it demonstrates a trend towards high-performance, clean and multifunctional formulations. Coty’s focus on clean ingredients, biodegradability and texture enhancement aligns with a broader shift in the market toward sustainable, luxurious and sensorially pleasing products.
Branched surfactants and other plant-derived ingredients may inspire suppliers to expand their portfolios with eco-friendly components that can stabilize and enhance skin care formulations.
Furthermore, Coty’s dedication to testing and refining sensory aspects of the eye cream highlights the importance of texture and feel in consumer products, especially in the premium skin care market. By employing advanced materials and precise testing protocols, Coty has crafted a formulation that delivers visible skin care benefits and enhances the user experience, a key consideration in modern product development.
WIPO International Patent No. NL2035477
Published on: 09/03/2024 Filed on: 07/25/2023
Title: Eye Cream Formulation
Inventors: Coty Inc. - Barbe, K. et al.