Promotional Features
Licorice: Hitting the sweet spot for topical cosmetics
Licorice is probably best known in the West as a sweet, sticky candy.
Yet this herbaceous plant has been revered for millennia in traditional medicine systems for its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant effects. Today, it is increasingly used in a range of cosmetic applications, from make-up to topical skin-care treatments, reflecting consumer desire for effective, plant-based solutions.
Research from NielsenIQ has found that natural ingredients are a key purchase driver for consumers when choosing beauty and personal care (BPC) products. It is little surprise, therefore, that 18% of all BPC sales now feature botanical extracts such as licorice.1
Licorice is the common name attributed to species of the genus Glycyrrhiza, of which G. glabra L., G. uralensis Fisch, and G. inflata Batalin are the three most used. These small, flowering, herbaceous perennials are native to Western Asia, North Africa, and Southern Europe. The thick roots and underground runners (rhizomes) are rich in glycyrrhizin, a saponin with anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing properties.2
Historical references to licorice use can be traced back thousands of years, with the earliest documented medicinal use in ancient Chinese, Assyrian, Egyptian, and Indian cultures.3 Licorice has played an important role in traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) since at least 2800 BCE and is the most frequently prescribed TCM preparation in China, where it is classed as an essential herbal medication.4
Licorice extracts for cosmetic use
According to Euromonitor International, recent innovation in the BPC industry has been focused on wellness and effectiveness benefits. Treatments and moisturizers comprise almost a quarter of new product launches, with ingredient-led beauty being a key focus.5 Licorice is a natural fit in this space, supported by a substantial body of clinical research into its biological activities, mechanisms of action, and active compounds.4
BGG has vast experience in the personal-care field with a range of glycyrrhizic acid-based products and licorice flavonoids from licorice root. These include:
18-ß-glycyrrhetinic acid – also known as enoxolone – has been shown to calm irritated skin by relieving itching and edema (swelling). With a safe and mild, non-steroidal, and anti-inflammatory profile, it may have potential for long-term control of the itch-scratch cycle. It has also been demonstrated to significantly reduce the thickness of subcutaneous fat when applied as an ointment.6 Applications include make-up, deodorants, shaving products, and skincare such as facial and body creams, moisturizers and paste masks.
Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate (DPG) is clinically supported for the treatment of acute and chronic dermatitis, with anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy, and anti-allergic reaction properties. It is widely used in cosmetics due to its chemical stability, good solubility, and emulsifying properties. In Japan, it is classed as an anti-inflammatory active constituent in quasi-drugs – medicines for symptom prevention and hygiene.7 Applications include skincare and toothpaste.
Mono ammonium glycyrrhizinate is a glycyrrhizic-acid derivative known for its anti-inflammatory, soothing, and skin-conditioning properties. It is commonly used in cosmetics and skincare products such as creams, lotions, and sunscreens due to its ability to reduce redness, irritation, dryness, and flaking, making it suitable for sensitive skin.
Glabridin is a licorice flavonoid with anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It has also been shown to treat acne and inhibit melanin production which can reduce UV-induced skin pigmentation and dark spots. This makes it ideal for use in creams and serums to reduce hyperpigmentation and brighten skin tone. BGG has registered its highly concentrated glabridin extract as a 100% physically processed agro-ingredient compliant with COSMOS standards.
Licochalcone A is another licorice flavonoid, with an anti-inflammatory and antibacterial action. A study found its use in a moisturizer to be as effective as hydrocortisone lotion for the treatment of childhood atopic dermatitis.8
Other applications for licorice extract include oral fresheners and mouthwash. Its benefits for oral health – including the prevention and treatment of tooth decay, gum disease, and recurrent mouth ulcers – have been extensively researched.2
Ensuring quality and sustainability
As with many traditional herbal medicine products, adulteration in licorice production is a recognized issue for its potential adverse impacts on efficacy and consumer health.9 Another concern is the sustainability of production, with NielsenIQ’s 2023 Sustainable Beauty report finding that over six in ten consumers said sustainability was more important to them than it was two years previously.10
BGG has been extracting licorice roots since its inception in 1995 and has local offices across key markets, including the US. It is one of the few companies to control the entire production chain, from field to final product. The licorice it uses comes from wildcrafted roots growing in pristine regions of the Middle East and Asia, including Azerbaijan, China, Kazakhstan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan.
The roots are sustainably harvested from three- to four-year-old plants during the winter months after the leaves have died which ensures the plants survive. After collection, the roots are botanically identified, cleaned, and dried, then shipped to a state-of-the-art processing facility. Here, they are quarantined under strictly monitored conditions while chemical analyses are performed, including screening for aflatoxins, ochratoxin, and heavy metals. All materials must pass every quality control before further processing – any lot failing a single test is rejected.
For each product, a specific licorice species is used. The manufacturing process includes controls on grinding, extraction (time, temperature, and pressure), concentration, purification, drying, packaging, and labeling. Finally, if the active principles and all safety parameters comply with BGG specifications, the lot is released for sale. Furthermore, all materials are non-GMO certified by third-party independent auditors such as Ecocert.
Harnessing the power of licorice
Licorice represents a natural, scientifically backed solution for a wide range of skincare and cosmetic applications.
With nearly three decades of continuous experience in licorice extracts, BGG is firmly established as a global leader in the field. The company is known as an expert partner for innovation, technical assistance, and new product development by working with manufacturers to help deliver high-performance licorice formulations that meet the demands of modern consumers.
References
1. NielsenIQ. 2030 Glow-up: The Future of Clean Beauty. October 18 2021.
2. AlDehlawi, H.; Jazzar, A. The Power of Licorice (Radix glycyrrhizae) to Improve Oral Health: A Comprehensive Review of Its Pharmacological Properties and Clinical Implications. Healthcare 2023, 11, 2887.
3. Fiore C.; Eisenhut M.; Ragazzi E.; et al. A history of the therapeutic use of liquorice in Europe. Journal of Ethnopharmacology, Volume 99, Issue 3, 2005, Pages 317-324, ISSN 0378-8741.
4. AlDehlawi, H.; Jazzar, A. The Power of Licorice (Radix glycyrrhizae) to Improve Oral Health: A Comprehensive Review of Its Pharmacological Properties and Clinical Implications. Healthcare 2023, 11, 2887. https://doi.org/10.3390/healthcare11212887
5. Jiang M.; Zhao S.; Yang S.; et al. An “Essential Herbal Medicine” – Licorice: A Review of Phytochemicals and its Effects in Combination Preparations. Journal of Ethnopharmacology. 2020, 249:112439.
6. More than 25% of all new brands launched are in the beauty and personal care industry. Euromonitor International. August 1 2024.
7. Armanini D.; Nacumulli D.; Francini-Pesenti F.; et al. Glycyrrhetinic Acid, the Active Principle of Licorice, Can Reduce the Thickness of Subcutaneous Thigh Fat Through Topical Application Steroids. 2005, 70:538-542.
8. EU Business in Japan. Quasi-Drugs. Updated May 2024
9. Udompataikul M.; Srisatwaja W. Comparative Trial of Moisturiser Containing Licochalcone A vs Hydrocortisone Lotion in the Treatment of Childhood Atopic Dermatitis: A Pilot Study. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 2011, 25(6):660-5.
10. Li J.; Xiong C.; He X.; et al. Using SSR-HRM to Identify Closely Related Species in Herbal Medicine Products: A Case Study on Licorice. Frontiers in Pharmacology, 2018, 9:407.
11. NielsenIQ. Analysis: Trends in Sustainable Beauty, November, 2023.