The international cosmetics market has undergone a metamorphosis in recent years, with a rise in natural, respectful and safe cosmetics for people and the environment. This transformation has been catalyzed by the COVID-19 pandemic and by the dazzling success of new digital-native brands, the so-called "indies", which have reinvented the market codes and finally disrupted cosmetic markets thanks to their ability to connect with consumers, especially the millennials, through direct communication through social networks. Natural and sustainable beauty is of great interest to the younger generation. According to Mintel, 25% of US 25-34 years-old users of skincare worried about the environmental impact of their skincare products (versus 19% overall) {1}.
One of the pillars of natural and sustainable beauty is for brands to formulate ingredients from natural, sustainable and ethical sources. However, there is currently a shift towards the use of science-backed active ingredients, related to the growing demand for safety, transparency and proven efficacy from consumers. Consumers are now self-made cosmetic experts and the use of inspirational extracts is no longer enough to make a cosmetic product appealing. According to Mintel {2}, 40% of US beauty and personal users agree that brands need to do a better job of explaining what ingredients they use and why.
Biotechnology is the use of living organisms to develop natural and sustainable technological solutions. It allows the development of natural ingredients highly concentrated and purified in bioactive molecules, expanding the range of active ingredients available to cosmetic formulators. GREENTECH, a French biotech group, has been committed for 30 years to develop such natural active ingredients from sustainable and ethical supply chains, thanks to cutting-edge technologies, to restore skin and hair health with a holistic approach. Using bio-guided fractionation, GREENTECH phytochemists develop active ingredients titrated in natural bioactive molecules or concentrated fractions from natural resources (plants, algae, microorganisms, sourced all around the world thanks to an international network of producers with whom Greentech works directly and to proprietary microorganism/microalgae collections), previously identified by the group’s biologists for their ability to modulate biological pathways of interest for the targeted cosmetic activity, which is confirmed and substantiated by a series of in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies. This robust approach, supported by articles published in international scientific journals, allows the group to offer to cosmetic brands reliable active cosmetic ingredients.
Bio-guided fractionation to purify regenerative active molecules from medicinal plants
At In-Cosmetics Global 2022 which was held in Paris in early April, GREENTECH unveiled MYRALYS, which illustrates its 30 years of expertise in phytochemistry, green extraction and bio-guided fractionation and the implementation of sustainable and ethical sourcing. MYRALYS is a COSMOS-certified organic active ingredient, highly purified in gentiopicroside (iridoid glycosides), sourced from organic wild yellow gentian roots to rejuvenate the upper and lower eye contours. Gentian roots are concentrated in bitter-tasting iridoid glycosides, which are already studied for different medicinal applications (hepatoprotection, treatment of diabetic retinopathy, …) {3} but not for eye contour care. Sustainably and locally harvested in France by gentian-pickers trained in good harvesting practices, the roots are strictly selected by GREENTECH scientists based on their gentiopicroside content in order to achieve a highly titrated extract thanks to an advanced purification process. To counteract eye contour aging, MYRALYS targets six interconnected biological pathways according to a multipathway approach. It stimulates NRF2-mediated cell antioxidant response, to limit oxidative stress and oxidation reactions involved in premature skin aging and the formation of advanced glycation end-products (AGEs). MYRALYS also modulates three interrelated pathways: it limits inflammation and VEGF-A-mediated angiogenesis while it promotes lymphatic functions by stimulating VEGF-C release. MYRALYS reduces the formation of AGEs, by stimulating Glyoxalase-1 (major detoxifying enzyme which specifically neutralizes the highly reactive aldehydes involved in AGEs formation) and by fully neutralizing the UV-induced formation of CML (major AGE). Finally, MYRALYS reduces dermal matrix aging, by stimulating collagen I synthesis and by protecting elastic fibers from UV-induced elastin degradation. Clinically tested on volunteers with aged upper and lower eye contours, MYRALYS lifts droopy upper eyelids (smoother skin, less folds) (Figure 1) and rejuvenates under-eye contour by reducing dark circles, eye bags and tear trough severity, with visible and significant results in just 14 days of use (and confirmed after 28 days) (Figure 2). MYRALYS is a potent natural solution to provide a total eye contour rejuvenation, for a time-defying look.
Figure 1. Lifting effect of MYRALYS on droopy and wrinkled upper eyelids in just 14 days
Figure 2. Rejuvenating effect of MYRALYS on the lower eye contour in just 14 days
GREENTECH also applied bio-guided fractionation to one of the most used medicinal plants in the Polynesian pharmacopoeia: Microsorum grossum, a tropical fern. Locally known as Metuapua'a, this fern is considered as an adaptogenic plant (i.e. whole body stimulant) and is traditionally used to treat many ailments, including skin disorders (use of the fronds) {4}. Its medicinal properties are linked to its richness in phytoecdysteroids such as phytoecdysones. These phytomolecules are produced by the fern to protect itself against insects, as they strongly and prematurely activate molting leading to damages to insects {5}. GREENTECH scientists were bio-inspired by this fern and took advantage of its defensive mechanism to develop REVERSKIN, which is a potent natural active ingredient titrated in phytoecdysones and polyphenols, extracted and purified from sustainably harvested Polynesian Microsorum grossum. REVERSKIN advantageously replicates the defensive mechanism of the fern by strongly and safely activating regeneration of deep skin layers to efficiently and visibly reverse the signs of skin aging. 3D reconstructed full-thickness skin models engineered with fibroblasts from young or old donors revealed the potent regenerating activity in aged skin of REVERSKIN, which targets one of the most age-sensitive skin structures: the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ), linking epidermis to dermis and regulating homeostasis of both compartments. REVERSKIN acts on four key components of DEJ, towards better organization, cohesion and stabilization of DEJ. In aged skin and thought to be a result of DEJ improvement, keratinocyte self-renewal capacity is tripled and epidermis thickness is doubled after treatment with REVERSKIN. Compared to young skin model, REVERSKIN reverses age-related epidermis thinning processes, acting as a bio-inspired skin deep regeneration booster. Clinically tested on volunteers aged 40 to 55, REVERSKIN restores a young skin micro-texture, fully reversing skin anisotropy observed with age(Figure 3). Skin firmness and moisturization are both increased, strengthening skin and preventing wrinkle worsening.
Figure 3. Effect of REVERSKIN® on surface isotropy of aged skin
“Brain-skin axis”-modulating biomolecules from ayurvedic plants to energize skin and mood
Mental health and self-care have been identified as rising trends in cosmetics, propelled by indie brands encouraging consumers to experience healthy lifestyles and to share their achievements on social networks. According to a Cosmetic business survey in 2020, 95% of consumers want beauty brands to support causes related to mental health and major international brands have also started to highlight the intimate connection between skin/hair issues and mental health. Today, there is a real consumer awareness about the role of cosmetics in helping them to feel better beyond just making them look better. Alongside the rise of sustainable beauty, holistic beauty is awakening.
To engage brands in holistic beauty, GREENTECH developed CIRCALYS, inspired by traditional ayurvedic medicine, backed with recent researches on the neuro-immuno-endocrine functions of skin and the connection between skin and brain, the so-called “brain-skin” axis {6}. CIRCALYS is a natural active ingredient titrated in andrographolide sourced from green chiretta Andrographis paniculata leaves, which is a major detoxifying plant in Ayurvedic traditional medicine. CIRCALYS reduces the impacts on skin and mood of fatigue induced by modern off-beat life. It modulates skin circadian clock, by restoring a "young" invigorating clock gene expression profile in old/tired keratinocytes and by acting on circadian modulators related to key cellular pathways. CIRCALYS extends cell longevity, reduces cell damages, promoting skin revitalization. CIRCALYS also acts as a “brain-skin" axis booster, enhancing oxytocin, endocannabinoid and endorphin signaling pathways to relax skin. Clinically tested on night/shift workers during 28 days, CIRCALYS was proved to significantly reduce facial visible signs of fatigue (less under-eye wrinkles, increased skin radiance and comfort) (Figure 4) and the impacts of fatigue on mood: the feeling of well-being was boosted, the perceived stress and the negative affect were reduced ("yoga-like" effect on mood). CIRCALYS is a chrono-detox active ingredient providing a “feel good energizing” effect, connecting skin care and mind care.
Figure 4. Effect of CIRCALYS on facial signs of fatigue (under-eye wrinkles, dull tone, incomfort)
GREENTECH
Pioneer in biotechnology, GREENTECH creates high-tech active ingredients from natural sources from plant, marine and microbial worlds. GREENTECH’s innovations represent proven and sustainable alternatives, based on balanced relationships with local producers all around the world, in the service of future generations. We source nature to resource the future.
Sources
- Di Gesu R (2021). A year of innovation in facial skincare, 2021. Mintel.
- Du L (2022). Beauty disruptors: sourcing botanicals. Mintel.
- Zhang X, Shi E, Yang L, Fu W et al. (2019). Gentiopicroside attenuates diabetic retinopathy by inhibiting inflammation, oxidative stress, and NF-κB activation in rat model. European Journal of Inflammation. 17: 1–13.
- Raharivelomanana P, Ho R, Teai T and Meybeck A (2013). Skin UV-protective effect of Microsorum grossum extract on human dermal fibroblast. Planta Medica. 79 (13): 1111.
- Bajguz A, Bąkała I and Talarek M (2015). Chapter 5. Ecdysteroids in Plants and their Pharmacological Effects in Vertebrates and Humans. Studies in Natural Products Chemistry 45:121-145.
- Nejati, R, Kovacic D and Slominski A (2013). Neuro-immune-endocrine functions of the skin: an overview. Expert Rev Dermatol, 8: 581-583.