Cosmetic ingredient supplier Presperse has introduced BioSyn Bisabolol, a fermentation-derived ingredient designed to meet the rising demand for high-purity, sustainable solutions in cosmetics and personal care formulations. CosmeticsDesign spoke to Dr. Daphne Benderly, Director of Research & Development at Presperse, who provided detailed insights into the ingredient’s development, benefits, and applications.
Achieving high purity
BioSyn Bisabolol distinguishes itself through its production method, which ensures over 95% purity in its most biologically active isomer. Dr. Benderly explained, “Bisabolol can exist in several isomeric forms.”
She illustrated that “isomers are molecules that have the same atoms, but they are arranged in different ways.” For example, she said, “imagine having a set of Legos; the blocks can be stacked to make a very high tower, or instead they can be arranged to build a robot.”
This focus on achieving a specific isomer produces “high purity, [which] gives superior performance,” said Dr. Benderly. “It doesn’t just promise efficacy; it supercharges it, ensuring that every bit of BioSyn Bisabolol goes to work with superior performance in formulations,” she added.
Multifunctional formulation opportunities
The ingredient’s oil solubility creates unique opportunities for product development across categories, including skin care, hair care, and body care. “BioSyn Bisabolol is an oil-soluble material,” noted Dr. Benderly. “This enables the development of products with skin or hair active materials in both water and oil phases of an emulsion-type product, and potentially achieve synergies.”
Dr. Benderly added, “It can seamlessly blend with both water-based and oil-based ingredients, allowing formulators to craft multi-layered emulsions that bring skin and hair benefits together.”
Anti-inflammatory and skin-soothing benefits
BioSyn Bisabolol’s potential for sensitive skin formulations stems from its ability to inhibit inflammatory markers. “Extensive cell model testing has shown that BioSyn Bisabolol inhibits the production of inflammatory markers,” Dr. Benderly explained. “This makes it applicable for sensitive skin formulations.”
The ingredient’s anti-inflammatory properties make it relevant for addressing skin irritation and supporting overall skin balance.
Protection against environmental stress
Studies conducted by Presperse have demonstrated that BioSyn Bisabolol helps protect skin from environmental stressors, including UV radiation. “In one of the cell model tests, BioSyn Bisabolol was tested for its effect on inflammatory markers after the cells were exposed to UV-B radiation,” said Dr. Benderly. “Results showed a statistically significant reduction in these inflammatory markers compared to the control group.”
These findings indicate potential for the ingredient to support formulations aimed at reducing visible signs of environmental damage.
Skin-brightening properties
In addition to its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging benefits, BioSyn Bisabolol has shown skin-brightening potential in laboratory testing. “In-vitro testing in human primary melanocyte cells showed that Bisabolol can reduce the amount of melanin produced, when the cells are stimulated to produce melanin,” Dr. Benderly stated.
“Reduction in melanin content is expected to give skin-brightening effects in consumer products,” she shared.
Alignment with sustainability goals
BioSyn Bisabolol is produced via fermentation, which “eliminates the need for extraction from vulnerable natural resources like the Candeia tree,” explained Dr. Benderly. The Candeia tree is a common source for traditional Bisabolol extraction.
This production method aligns with market trends favoring eco-conscious beauty solutions. “By focusing on sustainable practices — from feedstock sourcing to energy-efficient production — Presperse is dedicated to transparency and to making beauty a responsible, beautiful part of a more sustainable future,” she added.
Regarding industry impact “for formulators,” Dr. Benderly concluded, “the potential to develop products that combine BioSyn Bisabolol with other actives could lead to breakthrough formulations,” said Dr. Benderly, offering manufacturers and suppliers new possibilities for creating differentiated products while addressing consumer demand for sustainability and performance.
