Green Amazon expedition explores 'veritable treasure trove for discovering new biological actives'

Brazilian R&D development company Apoena Biotech has completed its pioneering Green Amazon expedition, a critical initiative to tap into the vast biotechnological potential of the Amazon Rainforest.

We spoke to Paula Jimena Segura Ramírez, Bioprospecting Laboratory Leader at Apoena Biotech, to learn more about the expedition and its findings. The expedition promises to introduce newly discovered ingredients into the cosmetics and personal care market and align with the industry's increasing demand for sustainable, ethical, and high-performance formulations.

Green Amazon: expedition objectives

Segura Ramírez described the expedition's mission as embodying the company's dedication to "pioneering biotechnological products while preserving natural resources, fostering sustainability, and championing environmental responsibility within one of the world's most diverse biomes."

In its approach, Apoena's objectives were clearly defined: the primary focus was on bioprospecting microorganisms from the Amazon Rainforest by identifying and isolating unique strains with the potential to significantly impact beauty product development on an industrial scale. These microorganisms are expected to lead to the creation of new actives for personal care and cosmetics, offering safer and more sustainable alternatives to synthetic chemicals, which can carry consequential environmental costs.

Another crucial objective was conservation. By establishing a microorganism bank, Apoena Biotech aims to minimize the need for continuous extraction of natural resources, thus contributing to the long-term preservation of the Amazon. Segura Ramírez emphasized that "establishing a microorganism bank facilitates the sustainable study and utilization of biodiversity, minimizing the need for repeated forest interventions."

The company also sought to establish partnerships with other industries and research institutions, promoting a collaborative approach to the screening and development process of the collected microorganisms.

Ethical and sustainable practices: A model for the beauty industry

Securing authorization for scientific activities in the Tapajós National Forest was a crucial step in the Green Amazon expedition. Apoena Biotech went through a rigorous process to obtain approval from the Biodiversity Authorization and Information System (SISBIO) and the Instituto Chico Mendes de Conservação da Biodiversidade (ICMBio), shared Segura Ramírez.

These approvals ensured that all research activities complied with environmental regulations, reflecting the company's commitment to ethical and sustainable practices.

In addition to securing the necessary permits, Apoena Biotech took measures to engage with and respect the autonomy of traditional Amazonian communities. "Although there was no direct participation of indigenous communities in the collection of biological material, the expedition included essential food and trail guide services, as provided by members of the local community," Segura Ramírez explained, who provided detailed project presentations to ensure transparency and alignment with community expectations.

Targeted species and microorganisms: A rich biodiversity

The Amazon Rainforest, often called the "lungs of the planet," is home to an astonishing array of plant species, many of which were targeted during the Green Amazon expedition. Among the 25 plant species collected were Açaí, Cupuaçu, and Andiroba, all known for their bioactive properties.

Segura Ramírez explained that the Apoena team meticulously gathered "small amounts of roots, stems, leaves, and fruits," as well as soil and litter, which were then "analyzed under metagenomic study techniques, aiming to carry out a functional screening of the microbial community in the collection region." This careful selection and analysis were designed to maximize the potential for discovering microorganisms that could be leveraged in future cosmetic and personal care products.

"The Amazon Rainforest's biodiversity serves as a veritable treasure trove for discovering new biological actives vital to cosmetics and personal care," said Segura Ramírez, and the vast array of plant and microbial species found in the Amazon holds the potential to produce compounds with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties, all of which are highly valued in skin care formulations. Moreover, the unique microbial diversity of the Amazon is expected to play a significant role in developing innovative postbiotics and probiotics.

These microorganisms can enhance skin health by improving the skin barrier function, restoring microbiota balance, and protecting against environmental stressors. The sustainable and ethical sourcing of these actives further reinforces their appeal, ensuring that the development of new products does not come at the expense of the environment.

Noteworthy discoveries and market potential

Although the detailed screening results from the expedition are still pending, the Green Amazon expedition has already yielded promising findings, shared Segura Ramírez. She explained that the team successfully isolated approximately 1,000 microorganisms from 100 collected samples.

She expressed confidence in the potential of these discoveries, noting, "We can anticipate the potential of biological actives to be discovered based on scientific information and the known characteristics of the species collected."

For instance, many of the Amazonian plants and microorganisms are known to produce powerful antioxidants essential for protecting the skin from oxidative stress and premature aging. Ingredients such as andiroba and copaiba are prized for their anti-inflammatory effects, making them valuable for treating sensitive and inflamed skin conditions.

Additionally, certain plants, like urucum, are rich in carotenoids, which provide natural UV protection. This feature is highly sought after in the development of safe, natural sunscreens.

The biotechnological potential of these discoveries is immense, and their eventual market introduction is expected to impact the cosmetics industry significantly. This is particularly relevant as consumers increasingly demand products that are not only effective but also environmentally responsible.

The path to market: Ensuring quality and sustainability

The journey from microorganism isolation to market-ready products is complex and time-consuming. However, Apoena Biotech anticipates that the first products containing new biological actives from the Amazon will be available within two years, said Segura Ramírez.

This timeline reflects the company's commitment to responsible innovation, with a strong emphasis on ensuring that each product meets the highest standards of quality, efficacy, and safety.

Segura Ramírez outlined the meticulous process: "After isolation, metagenomic analysis is conducted to identify and characterize the microorganisms and their metabolic capabilities." Then, she added, "Following in vitro tests, the actives are evaluated in ex vivo human skin models. Finally, rigorous clinical tests are conducted to ensure the safety and effectiveness of the actives in humans."

Standardizing the scaling and production processes is another vital step before these products can be brought to market. She concluded that Apoena Biotech is dedicated to developing cultivation, extraction, and purification methods that are both efficient and sustainable, ensuring that the actives can be produced consistently and at scale.  

As the screening results continue to emerge, the industry can look forward to the introduction of new actives that not only meet consumer demand for high-performance products but also contribute to the preservation of one of the world's most vital ecosystems. With growing consumer awareness and demand for sustainable products, the biological actives uncovered during the Green Amazon expedition are poised to impact the cosmetics industry by offering a path forward that prioritizes efficacy, safety, and environmental responsibility.