Study: Biodiverse Peruvian oil topical improves long-term skin hydration by 143.6%

The new study, published in Cosmetics, ​assessed the formulation for its hydrating properties and skin pH maintenance using noninvasive skin bioengineering methods.

A holistic approach to skin care

The combination of natural extracts and oils in cosmetic formulations is not new, but the choice of ingredients in ASC Cream reflects a growing trend toward harnessing plant-based resources to address common skincare concerns. According to the researchers, "Vegetable oils and extracts have been used from ancient times for skin care. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the physicochemical, organoleptic, and microbiological characteristics and the instrumental efficacy in vivo of a cosmetic formula named 'ASC Cream.'"

The formulation's hero ingredients included sangre de grado (Croton lechleri​) resin extract, known for its healing properties, alongside oils from moriche palm, goldenberry, super Sacha peanut, and Sacha peanut. This combination of ingredients is noted for its high content of omega fatty acids and polyphenols, which enhance skin hydration and health.

As outlined in the study, the selected oils "promote skin permeability through lipid fluidization in the stratum corneum" due to their molecular structure and the presence of essential fatty acids such as linolenic acid (omega-3), which has anti-inflammatory benefits.

In vivo efficacy testing

The study's in vivo assessment involved 24 healthy female volunteers between the ages of 40 and 65. The researchers tested ASC Cream's impact on skin hydration and pH balance using noninvasive bioengineering tools from Courage + Khazaka Electronics.

The volunteers applied the cream on the front area of their legs over 28 days, and the effects were measured in both short-term (30 minutes, 1 hour, 3 hours) and long-term (14 and 28 days) time periods.

Researchers noted that the findings were significant, as ASC Cream demonstrated substantial increases in skin hydration without compromising the skin's natural pH. In fact, the study determined that after applying the cream, participants' immediate hydration levels increased by 132.4%, while long-term hydration improved by 143.6%.

According to the researchers, "the hydrating effect of ASC Cream strongly supports its potential use in daily skin care regimens." Furthermore, the study highlighted the product's ability to maintain skin pH, which is crucial for preserving the skin's protective barrier.
The team confirmed that "no volunteers showed any visible adverse reaction in the application area throughout the treatment, demonstrating that ASC Cream does not alter skin pH."

Formulation stability & skin compatibility

The cream's hydrating benefits and physical stability were also tested. ASC Cream's formulation is based on an oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion that includes 0.65% Sepimax Zen, a gel that provides the formula with non-Newtonian behavior, allowing it to change viscosity under shear forces without phase separation, the study explained.

This quality ensures that the cream remains easy to apply while retaining its texture and organoleptic properties, even when subjected to high temperatures (40°C). The presence of Sepimax Zen further contributed to the formulation's stability, as it allowed for the integration of large amounts of oil without destabilizing the product.

Synergistic effects of bioactive compounds

One of the study's most intriguing aspects is the investigation into the synergistic effects of ASC Cream's bioactive compounds. As the researchers pointed out, some cosmetic formulations may experience either synergistic or antagonistic interactions between ingredients, but in the case of ASC Cream, the formulation was specifically designed to "improve the hydration effect and maintenance of skin pH, ensuring synergism between these components."

This synergy is due to the rich content of omega fatty acids and polyphenols in the oils and extract, which work together to provide enhanced skin hydration. The study also suggested that the formulation might stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans, essential for maintaining skin's moisture levels and elasticity.

Based on previous studies, the researchers concluded that ASC Cream could promote the synthesis of these hydrating polymers, enhancing the skin's capacity to retain water. "The results obtained in this skin bioengineering study scientifically support these claims," the study emphasized.

Long-term potential & broader applications

The promising results from this study suggested that ASC Cream may have broader applications beyond regular skin care. Given its hydrating properties and the ability to maintain skin pH without causing irritation, the researchers proposed that ASC Cream could be effective for people with skin conditions linked to dehydration, including diabetes-related dryness.

"ASC Cream may foreseeably be used on diabetics, who develop skin dehydration that leads to vulnerability to dermatological conditions, especially on the lower limbs," the study noted.

Another potential benefit of the ASC Cream formulation is its support of local economies in Peru. By incorporating oils from Peruvian plants, the study highlighted that "the plant species from the Peruvian biodiversity in their formulation... can boost the economic activity of the inhabitants of the respective regions."

The ASC Cream study offers compelling evidence that a balanced combination of Sangre de grado resin extract and oils from Peruvian biodiversity can significantly enhance skin hydration while maintaining healthy pH levels. "These five natural ingredients were correctly mixed in an o/w emulsion vehicle, allowing a better availability at the skin level," the researchers concluded.

ASC Cream's formulation offers a validated solution with proven efficacy for manufacturers looking to incorporate scientifically backed natural ingredients into their products.

Source: Cosmetics​
2024, ​11, 129. https://doi.org/10.3390/cosmetics11040129​ 
"Design, Development, and In Vivo Testing of the Hydrating Effect and pH Maintenance a Cosmetic Formulation Incorporating Oils and an Extract from Peruvian Biodiversity" 
Authors: Huaman, J. et al.