IFF introduces desugarization tech for sustainable ingredient development

International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. (IFF) has developed new desugarization technology that allows the extraction of betaine from sugar beet molasses, a by-product of sugar production. This process supports sustainable ingredient development in the cosmetics and personal care industry, a sector increasingly focused on environmental responsibility and product efficacy.

The technology, which increases the sugar yield for mills by 12%, also generates a betaine-rich side stream that can be refined and commercialized. According to Alexandra Schuler, Sustainability Director, Health & Biosciences at IFF, this innovation represents a significant step toward minimizing waste in the production process. “Our desugarization technology allows us to extract more sugar from sugar beet molasses than traditional methods, and the resulting betaine is used in beauty and personal care products for moisturization and protection benefits,” she stated.

Betaine’s role in skin care and hair care

Betaine, a naturally-occurring osmolyte, helps cells manage water balance. It plays a critical role in protecting the skin from environmental stressors such as UV exposure and dry conditions. GENENCARE OSMS BA, IFF’s crystallized form of betaine, has been developed for use in cosmetic formulations, addressing consumer demand for effective moisturizing products.

Schuler noted the scientific basis for betaine’s efficacy, explaining that it helps protect keratinocytes—the predominant cells in the epidermis—from hyperosmotic stress. This process supports long-term skin hydration. "Betaine’s role as an osmolyte makes it essential for maintaining the skin’s moisture balance, which is particularly important under environmental stress,” she added.

Addressing market trends in sustainable ingredient transparency

The cosmetic and personal care industry has witnessed a growing demand for both product efficacy and ingredient transparency, and further, Schuler noted that “54% of US consumers actively research product ingredients, not just out of curiosity but to ensure the product’s efficacy.”

GENENCARE OSMS BA is positioned as a solution that addresses these consumer concerns. It is certified as an upcycled ingredient by Where Food Comes From, meaning it is derived from by-products that would otherwise go to waste. This certification is becoming more significant for brands aiming to meet consumer expectations for environmentally responsible products.

Multifunctionality across formulations

The versatility of GENENCARE OSMS BA extends beyond skin care and plays a prominent role in hair care and toiletries. In skin care, the betaine-derived ingredient helps reduce transepidermal water loss by contributing to stronger barrier function. Schuler explained that “it provides long-term moisturization and also protects proteins, reinforcing the tight junctions in the epidermis.”

In hair care formulations, betaine improves tensile strength, reduces fiber breakage, and decreases frizz, which makes hair easier to manage, particularly in humid conditions. Additionally, the ingredient reduces the irritation caused by surfactants in toiletries, enhancing the overall sensory experience by improving foam quality in rinse-off products.

“One of the main advantages of GENENCARE OSMS BA is its flexibility in formulations. Being water-soluble and easy to use, it can be incorporated into a wide array of personal care products,” Schuler noted. The crystalline form of betaine allows for precise measurement, ensuring consistent formulation and efficacy, a feature that has made it attractive to formulators.

A shift toward upcycling in cosmetics

The development of GENENCARE OSMS BA reflects a broader trend in the cosmetics industry toward upcycling and waste reduction. IFF’s process, which repurposes by-products from sugar production, exemplifies this approach. Schuler emphasized that upcycling is “swiftly transitioning from a niche concept to a mainstream trend,” as brands increasingly seek sustainable ingredient sources.

While upcycled ingredients offer promise, Schuler acknowledged that scalability can be challenging due to logistical hurdles. Nevertheless, she emphasized the importance of innovation in both ingredient development and supply chain management to fully realize the potential of upcycled products.

Energy efficiency and carbon footprint reduction

IFF has also taken steps to ensure that the production process for GENENCARE OSMS BA aligns with its broader sustainability goals. The company’s Finnish production facility has implemented technologies to reduce its carbon footprint, including the use of biofuels and mechanical vapor recompression to cut steam consumption. According to Schuler, these efforts have resulted in a reduction of approximately 19,000 tons of carbon emissions annually.

“The increased use of biofuels, combined with energy efficiency technologies, has significantly reduced the environmental impact of our production process,” Schuler explained. IFF’s lifecycle assessment indicates that GENENCARE OSMS BA captures more carbon than it releases, aligning with industry moves toward more sustainable manufacturing practices.

Future outlook for sustainable ingredients

Looking forward, IFF plans to expand its portfolio of sustainable ingredients through continued innovation in both technology and sourcing. Schuler mentioned that upcycling will remain a core focus, as consumers show increasing willingness to invest in products with ethical and environmental certifications.

“We anticipate a significant rise in sustainable ingredient development, particularly focusing on upcycling and waste reduction,” Schuler concluded, pointing to the company’s broader efforts in creating ingredients that align with both market demand and environmental goals.